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Cottonera Lines 10th October 2006.

Our walks programme opened in a grand manner, worthy of a grand rambler, Lino Bugeja, our president, who planned and organised ably for it's success, and together with Mr Anthony Attard directly contributed to make it most interesting in its historical and cultural content.

Lino welcomed the group numbering some one hundred and twenty ramblers and gave a brief of the itinerary in the shadows of Notre Dame gate. The group pressed on to the grounds of St Edwards College, purposely opened for the occasion, where he gave a short account of the history of the building, which served as a British services hospital during the first world war.


CL1 - Ramblers pouring out of "it-Tokba" to
the landing place of the "piccolo soccorso"

 

Ramblers admired the quaint chapel, recently enlarged from the small church that predated the building itself.

Very interesting indeed was the access to the top of the fortifications and on to the site over the St James Gate, which unfortunately is in a state of abandon reminiscent of most of the Maltese historical, archaeological and cultural sites in general. Two enormous finials that must have been splendid before they weathered to the state they are in, threaten the whole structure as well as life and limb, as they balance menacingly on the flimsy remains of what was their pedestal. Ramblers were shamefaced into disbelief as they witnessed that the historic and architectural masterpiece opened up on a dung-filled ditch where a cow farm took pride of place. A distinguished rambler observed that a name more adapt to the place was "Cow & Gate"

Out from the back gate the group romped down to St Lawrence Cemetery, where Anthony Attard explained how Bishop Labini consecrated the piece of ground to be used for the purpose after a British ordnance magazine exploded in the early 1800's killing some 150 people that could not be buried all together in the Church of St Lawrence. Interestingly a naval officer of Irish and therefore Catholic decent was sentenced to death by the British and consequently buried there. The tomb of this McSweeney was held in reverence by the folk of Birgu and to this day his intervention is still sought by the devout for graces implored.

 


CL2 - Conquering Fort St Angelo.

Birgu was accessed through San Salvatore Gate which until the 1960's was used an institution for uncontrollable boys, and thence through the lesser known Capucchin Gate. Along the Birgu fortifications where La Vallette was wounded, ramblers were able to admire views of Kalkara Bay with the imposing Bighi buildings, themselves a former naval hospital, dominating the hill across the water. Further on and under the forlorn backside of the Santa Scholastica Convent, another former healing institution, the entrance to the Grand Harbour could be enjoyed from an infrequent angle. Suddenly the group spiralled into "it-Tokba" to pour out onto the beach beneath the fortifications. It was explained this was the place that the "piccolo soccorso" - as the first re-enforcements that arrived from Sicily during the Great Seige are known- landed and entered the besieged city.


CL3 - Listening to Lino with the Valletta Waterfront as backdrop
 

Diverging but mainly disparaging opinions were expressed at the horrid new building that sharply contrasts with the old fortifications, but were pleasantly forgotten with the sight of fort St Angelo, which was opened for the visit by the Ramblers, thanks to Fondazjoni Wirt Artna.

Accustomed to viewing it from the exterior few had ever been inside the fort to marvel at the austerity of the great halls and rooms, ramps and staircases that lead to the battlements above. Being on the parapet near midday Ramblers were lucky to attend to the firing of the canon salute from the Valletta Upper Baracca and the ringing of the War Memorial Bell, both directly opposite. The views of Valletta and Floriana from here are awe-inspiring in themselves and from further up forts St Elmo and Ricasoli flanking the entry to the harbour endeared thoughts of my father, who as a Major Quartermaster with the Royal Malta Artillery held commanding posts at both these stations, where as a young boy he often carried me.


 

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Marks: Dieci e lode.

Alex Vella
10.10.06
 
 

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