| Selmun Coast - Sunday 12th February |
This time round the weather was cloudy but at
least no rain bedevilled the 70-strong group of ramblers who
punctually turned up at Selmun.
In a short introduction Alex briefed those present on the background
work being done by RAM regarding the issue of access at il-Munxar
and that ultimately this remains the prime focus of RAM - opening up
the countryside to bona fide ramblers.
Alex then gave a short history on the Palace at Selmun - our meeting
point for this ramble - and the area around, which was bequeathed to
the Foundation for the Redemption of Slaves by Catherina Viatale in
the late sixteenth century.
The Foundation was set up by Grandmaster Wignacourt to raise funds
for the noble purpose of purchasing the release and freedom of
Maltese slaves that had been captured and held by Muslims in North
Africa and Turkey. Catherina Vitale was moved by the appeal made by
a Carmelite friar, and she bequeathed with immediate effect a
considerable part of her wealth, including a large portion of land
in the Selmun/Mistra area and some houses in Valletta, to the
Foundation.
Looking up towards the starting point
Ironically Catherina herself was a slave owner and
dealer, and is reputed to have treated her slaves most cruelly. Slaves
were part of the wealthy dowry she had received when at 12 years of age,
she married Ettore, the pharmacist of the Order, who in turn was already
married, and later found guilty of bigamy by the Inquisition and fined
300 skudi and made to recite the rosary daily to repent for his sin.
Ettore died around 1590 and the young widow of twenty-four years took
over his influential position which she very ably used to her financial
and sensual advantage.
Around 1608 the Inquisition was trying her for her sadism on her slaves
and her sexual incontinence, eventually fining her and confining her
indoors for some time.
When in 1610 her only daughter joined the cloistered nuns convent known
as Repentite - considered at the time a place of refuge for noble female
social rejects and fallen women of ill-repute, Catherina went into a
furious battle against the convent until she finally managed to wrestle
her daughter out and marry her off. Only for her daughter to start legal
proceedings for dowry and maintenance which Catherina reluctantly paid
but kept to a minimum.
Catherina died in Syracuse (Italy) in 1619 and amended her will to
benefit a lot of institutions, including the Repentite convent, but not
her daughter who was to content herself with what she had won from her
mother.
The Selmun Palace was built around the middle of the 18th century for
the purpose of being leased-out to the Knights of the Order for hunting
and leisure purposes. It carries on its main doorway the emblem topped
with the letter "R" that was the coat of arms of "Monte della Redenzione
degli Schiavi"
The facade of Selmun Palace
And then, we were on the way - first taking a steep downhill lane just
south of the palace leading to Mistra Bay. From there we started hugging
the coastline proper passing first by the Mistra Battery ( now used as a
base for fish-farming ) then on to Rdum il-Bies where Selmunett ( aka
St.Paul's Islands ) came into view.
The trek continued on to Blata l-Bajda where some mud had to be crossed.
A large area of mostly disused saltpans hugs the coast at this point.
Once over the clay slopes it was down again to a nameless little cove
with the ruins of Ghajn Hadid Tower ( reputedly destroyed by a bolt of
lightning in the nineteenth century ) looming above the cliff face.
Rounding another small promontory brought us finally to Mgiebah Bay.
Rdum il-Bies in the foreground and Selmunett
(St Paul's Islands) in the background
From there onwards the route was an easier one on the surfaced country
lane which leads back to Selmun Palace.
Duration of walk 2.5 hours ( without stops )
Group Leader : Steven ably helped by Alex, Romano and Felix.
Note : Some of the photos appearing here were taken in sunnier weather
in January - we think blue skies make for nicer pictures.
The route taken
